Is that you Mr. Surfgod? If yes, what have we done wrong that you send us shoulder high waves instead of predicted double overhead+? We all finished our dishes, we were friendly to our environment and even to the pigs that mess up our trashcans every night. Why do you punish us? Or was it just a plot of MagicSeaWeed and Surfline against us? We don’t know. But what we know is, that for Friday we have another forecast. It says we can prepare for up to overhead surf. So whoever we are talkin to right now.. THIS is your last chance, don’t screw us again or we will find you and build a wavepool out of your remains. You got the choice.
That makes me think of Kellys new plaything, that he has dedicated recently. A “perfect” wave. One better than the other, but still the same. Similar shape, height and flow on every wave, perfect to improve turns, barrelriding or what so ever. Clearly a cool innovation, the wave looks awesome and I would love to surf it. But somehow it just reminds me how good we have it with the ocean. You never know what it will do, you can have the ride of your life on this one but wipe out horribly on the next one. Swell can be predicted perfect but you won’t find any good wave or the other way around. That suspense, that being prepared for a set that washes everyone away but hoping for the set that brings you the ride of your life.. Many times it’s a balancing act. You can get shacked or you can get incredibly barreled, or something in between.
We all gotta say thank you to Kelly for showing us how good innovation can be and for reminding us that surfing in the wild ocean is priceless, there is just no better feeling. Still lovin Surfing, still lovin Kelly, still lovin the ocean. On that note till next week!
written by paul